“As with any cultural celebration, Spain’s elaborate Semana Santa was for centuries a work-in-progress. The starting point for its extensive history is the death of Christ; however, the celebration that we see today is the result of centuries of evolution.”
“A significant point in Semana Santa’s history is 1521, when the Marqu?s de Tarifa returned to Spain from the Holy Land. After his journey, he institutionalized the V?a Crucis (Stations of the Cross) in Spain, and from that moment on this holy event was celebrated with a procession. Over time, the observance of the V?a Crucis eventually broke up into the various scenes of the Passion, with the incorporation of portable crosses and altars. This would eventually lead to today’s elaborate processions.”
“Check out any map of Seville’s Semana Santa routes and you will see the official route clearly marked. This original route, while it has evolved since 1604, continues to serve as the backbone for the present route. The final major step took place in the 17th century, when Seville’s various cofrad?as (brotherhoods) began dividing and organizing themselves into what they are today.”
Semana Santa Processions
All male or all female brotherhoods organize and walk in the processions. The brotherhoods (los hermandades) were originally called cofrad?as and are religious organizations. It is thought that the carriers (cucuruchos) participated solely as a form of penance. Today, while there is some degree of social status involved, the principal motivation seems to be that of devotion by the carriers.
“There is a Holy Vigil (velaci?ne) before each procession. Holy Vigils generally take place at the church the day before that Church’s procession. The vigils are organized by a brotherhood, and there are different brotherhoods for each sculpture that will appear in the processions.”
“The sculpture is moved near the church altar in front of a huge decorative paper backdrop. A carpet is constructed in front of the sculpture. Around the carpet is a garden scene (huerto) that includes fruit and vegetables, bread, candles, flowers, and the native seed pod – the corozo.”
In the evening, a funeral-march band plays. Outside the church, larges crowds form, and a carnival atmosphere develops. You find traditional foods and drinks–even games in some instances.
Leaving from each respective church, the processions follow predetermined routes through the streets of Antigua before returning to the church several hours later. The procession carriers wear purple robes worn until Good Friday. Then, they wear black robes signifying mourning.
“Processions generally begin with incense carriers and the brotherhood’s banner, followed by the carriers and the float (anda).” Carriers will carry the float for a block, and then a new group will take over. Turns are determined by carriers’ shoulder height to ensure that the float is balanced. This is extremely important as floats can weigh as much as 7,000 pounds.
“A block behind the main float, women carry a smaller float with a figure of the Virgin Mary. The women wear white in their procession before Good Friday. Following behind are a funeral-march band and two additional floats carrying the sculptures of San Juan and Mary Magdalene.”
In Antigua, staging points for processions include La Merced, San Felipe, San Jose Cathedral, and the road along San Francisco and Escuela de Cristo churches—the largest on Holy Thursday and Good Friday. Some processions start as early as 2 AM or 5 AM. The processions consist of andas with statues of Christ carried by hundreds of purple-robed men. At 3:00 AM on Good Friday, preparations begin for the mock trial and sentencing of Christ. Participants dress as Roman soldiers, Pontius Pilate, and other participants in the drama. At 7:00 AM, the sculpture of Christ carrying His crucifix is moved through the carpeted main streets of Antigua on the shoulders of His worshipers until early afternoon, when the image is replaced by another of Christ being laid to rest.
Black crepe paper adorns the city as thousands of people, burning incense and dressed in black, crowd city plazas and streets. A spectacular procession is led by a man bearing the crucifix, with hundreds of followers carrying black banners and standards engraved with the final words of Jesus and the pronouncements of God. Life-like images representing archangels, Stations of the Cross, Cavalry, apostles, and many others are part of the silent procession through the streets of Antigua.
Holy Saturday continues with other funeral processions led by the image of the Virgin Mary (virgen dolorosa), followed by countless women dressed in black who commemorate the Virgin’s moments of sorrow at Christ’s side. The processions move slowly through Antigua’s cobblestone streets, the feet of the bearers cushioned by the alfombras, which are destroyed as the procession passes over. Finally, Easter Sunday is a time of rejoicing, with early processions through the streets of Antigua celebrating the resurrection of Christ. Firecrackers are heard throughout the city, and masses are held in all the churches.
Following these processions, Easter Sunday is a time of rejoicing, with early processions through the streets celebrating the Resurrection of Christ. Firecrackers can be heard throughout the city, while masses are held in the local churches.
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Processions for Holy Week – History
Today as throughout history, the celebration of Holy Week (Semana Santa) processions “remains a sacramental centerpiece for the period of Lent. Each procession is organized by brotherhoods which coordinate all of the logistics including the carriers (cucuruchos) for the floats (andas). Some of the major processions begin before dawn and conclude after dark, requiring some 8,000 participants along the route. Although some processions are more elaborate than others, all of them include two traditional andas. The first, bearing a statue of a cross-laden Jesus of Nazareth, is carried by up to 100 men. The second is a smaller float, born by women, transporting Virgin de Delores who represents the Virgin Mary grieving over Jesus’ crucifixion.”
“According to Elizabeth Bell, cucuruchos historically carried the floats with their faces covered. It is believed that the carriers previously participated solely for penance. But, during the 1950s because of political attitudes, carriers were required to show their faces.”
“Preceding the anda in the procession is a man holding a pole with a sign declaring the turn number the procession is getting ready to make. When the float makes the turn, the carriers designated for that turn are waiting on either side of the street and, as it slowly stops, subtly take the place of the carrier in their assigned position.” This maneuver is so seamless that it is hardly discernable, even though you know it is happening.
“The order of every procession follows a similar pattern. The float of Christ appears first with the figure of the Virgin de Delores trailing about a block behind. Accompanying her are a funeral band and two smaller floats with sculptures of Saint John and Mary Magdalene. These are carried by four men who make change turns (but not at every corner).”
“Some of the processions are more comprehensive in the re-enactment of the last days of Christ’s life. Many participants portray Roman soldiers. The roles of Pontius Pilate and Judas Iscariot are paid positions because no one wants to volunteer for them, and they must march the entire route without replacements. One of the most stunning processions happens on the morning of Good Friday, originating from La Merced Cathedral in Antigua. Along with the typical andas, there are incredibly lifelike wooden statues of Christ depicting His torture and suffering leading up to the crucifixion.”